Money Order Office

Deep below Little Bourke is a remnant of when Melbourne was 'Marvellous'. The former vault of the 1890s Money Order Office - which later became offices for prime ministers Menzies and Chifley - now houses Chesterfield furnishings and racks of dusty wine bottles. Contemporary elements have been embraced here, too: Stevie Wonder turns up on the otherwise swingin' soundtrack, and modern decor touches give the place a natty feel. MOO's broadsheet menu is built to share, and works for both larger bar-focused groups and those wanting an intimate meal in a deep-set booth. A strength is Med-inspired fish dishes, such as marinated (not salty) anchovies blessed with a sweet hit of fennel jam, and ceviche with citrus-spritzed avocado. Quail on quinoa is barely livened by pomegranate molasses; not so slices of marvellous, red-centred roast lamb saddle, served with smoky eggplant and gleaming pepper, caper and tomato salad. Goat's-curd mousse with spiced orange and figs keeps up the value of this vault's contents.