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Montalto

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$$

This bustling, white linen-dressed winery fine diner offers timeless appeal. Panoramic views across sculpture-filled vineyards, where families picnic and children frolic, add to the charm. The restaurant aims high, and charges accordingly. Chef Barry Davis uses local produce, much of it sourced from the property's garden. To start, citrus-dressed poached scallops with marinated salmon and manzanillo olives is poised between bold and restrained, while the suggested pinot noir match for beef - tenderloin and braised short rib - with nettle espuma (foam) and sauce poivrade, is surprising and inspired. But like wine styles, the times are a-changin' and some menu aspects may be starting to feel a littled dated, especially a truffled potato foam with a main of roast pork rib with creamed cabbage. To end, orange, almond and coriander cake with poached rhubarb and Main Ridge 'Cashmere' goat's curd is the perfect primer for a stroll to the sculptures.

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