Moon Under Water

This chic white dining salon behind the rollicking Builders Arms is named after a George Orwell essay on the qualities of a great pub. The room is pared back and elegant - close linen-dressed tables, black bentwoods - and so is the menu: only four set courses (plus cheese) are offered, leaving diners little decision-making. It's assured, and requires a level of trust. But patrons are in good hands: owner-chefs are Andrew McConnell, who's making Gertrude the city's top eat street, and Josh Murphy, the Guide's 2012 Young Chef of the Year. Ultimately, the leap of faith is repaid: pearly raw scallops are paired with crisp blanched cabbage, dressed with buttermilk, mustard, apple and a hint of juniper; sublime beef short rib features a crisp crumb crust with a mustardy kick alongside sweetly piquant house-made relish. Poached meringue, with strawberry jelly, its sweetness tempered by rhubarb granita, sheep's milk yoghurt chantilly and fresh pomelo, is celestial. Orwell would have been well-pleased.