Moon Under Water

Stepping from the busy Builders Arms bar into its flagship dining room can feel a little like stepping out of the wardrobe into snowy Narnia. The white-on-white room feels a world away from corner-pub hubbub, with pale-aproned waiters ushering guests to pearl-grey banquettes. The sense of suspended reality continues with the menu – no choices to make, other than selecting one of two possible mains, and whether to add oysters or cheese to a fixed four-course repast that changes weekly. The cooking, like the room, seems simple but is underpinned by great skill and a sure palate. Discover excellent brown bread and butter concealed in an enamel box beneath the day’s amuse-gueule, maybe tiny mussels on house-made seed crackers. Later there may be petals of smoked duck breast on tender artichoke; satiny pasta with crabmeat and vibrant nettle sauce; crisp Western Plains pork with gingery pumpkin. Bitter chocolate tart with buffalo yoghurt ensures the adventure ends happily; don’t miss out on matched wines from a wizard sommelier.

And … Allergies? Intolerances? Alert them before you come and the kitchen will tweak the menu for you.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Other-wordly elegance.
Best bit Great wine advice.
Worst bit Bathrooms shared with the pub break the spell.