MoVida

With a clutch of successful Melbourne restaurants and a well-worn Spanish passport, Frank Camorra's move into the Sydney dining scene was hotly anticipated. And now that he's here, it's a matter of getting in line. Sensual pleasures abound in this smart-casual take on the Spanish bodega. Food comes in a hierarchy of plate size, from single mouthful to share plates for two, and traverses flavours both subtle and bold. Zucchini with crab and a pea and mint gazpacho proves a gentle start, a stark contrast to robust slow-cooked octopus with potato and paprika. Hot, smoky, succulent spatchcock anointed with a racy red pepper sauce ups the ante, while clams hold their own in a jammy mess of jamon, garlic and parsley. Camorra's version of Galicia's almond tarta santiago, the cross of St James marked out in sugar on top, may be one reason he has been recognised by the Spanish government for sharing the food of Spain. And aren't we delighted?