MoVida Aqui

Of MoVida’s various incarnations, Aqui resembles a naughty younger sibling – the one who just won’t leave the party, even when it’s way too late. Despite the suity location adjoining the judicial precinct, the vintage advertising posters and milk-crate stylings over the bar here all say ‘fun’. As you sip your way through a flight of dry sherries, nibbling imported sardines from the can (with sourdough and lemon, just like the bars in Barca …) you’ll soon catch the vibe. The Bomba – a depth charge of rich chorizo in a crunchy potato ball, splashed with romesco – is a must, then perhaps Anguila, a salty prawn crisp topped with smoked eel mousse. Raciones might include wet-roasted rabbit with ribbons of pasta in a paprika-spiked jus, before a postre of trifle starring poached rhubarb – dosed with a sweet Pedro Ximenez, of course. Service is slick and personal and with so many tempting morsels it’s hard to say ‘Enough!’ – a partner (or parent) may need to drag you home.

And … Groups of four-plus can feast on set-menu banquets – mandatory for groups of eight or more.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Living la vida loca.
Best bit Spontaneous guided sherry tastings at the bar.
Worst bit Exiting via the stairs.