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Mr Tipply's

Rachel Olding

Speak up: The food is good but forget about a chat over dinner.
Speak up: The food is good but forget about a chat over dinner.Dominic Lorrimer

American (US)$$

Mr Tipply, according to fictional character's blurb in the back of the menu, is an intrepid aviator, a Martini-swilling heartbreaker and an elusive gambler hiding out somewhere in the Malacca Straits.

He was spotted recently at the funeral of a formula one legend and the jacuzzi at Hugh Hefner's 85th birthday, apparently.

That his third stop would be this three-level bar at the former City Hotel site is even more of a stretch but, nevertheless, this ''fine house of consumption and conviviality'' bears his name.

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There's obviously a bit of tongue in cheek here - and a bit of piggybacking on the dapper whisky bar/speakeasy obsession - but it seems all the more ridiculous when you arrive at said ''fine house of consumption and conviviality'' to find just another CBD bar.

A lot of dosh has been splashed on exotic African wallpaper, a garden-inspired dining area and an upstairs cocktail bar.

But methinks Mr Tipply would be crying into his gin had he walked in off Kent Street to find blaring house music, sozzled 9-5ers and a girl tripping in platform heels with a bucket of champagne.

The good thing is that even naff CBD bars have upped the ante and offer decent food and drink, perfect for a loose Friday night.

Chef Elaine Lee's Asian-inspired food menu was the standout for its mix of easy share plates and substantial pub meals done with creativity and fresh flavours.

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The trio of duck sliders (green-curry duck with tomato and lychee mayo, roast duck with shallot and hoisin sauce mayo, tea-smoked duck with cucumber and salted duck egg mayo, $25) - is an interesting and tasty innovation in a city obsessed with those darn little burgers.

Juicy grilled miso eggplant pieces ($8) are quickly snapped up as are the tempura rock shrimp ($17) and perfectly tender Mongolian lamb cutlets ($18).

Shoutouts to the light 'n' bright salad menu, too, which gets creative with prawns, twice-cooked quail, quinoa and organic soba noodles.

Drinks are hit and miss, with a few good wines, some ambitious signature cocktails and a bunch of mediocre classics.

A Kimchi Mary (kimchi cabbage, vodka, tomato juice, spicy mix, $18) needs 10 times more kick but the Grape Balls of Monkey (Scotch, grape mix, chocolate liqueur, ginger bread syrup, lemon, sake, $17) is a nice balance of chocolate, grape and ginger.

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Steer clear of the Back from the Dead (rum, falernum mix, sugar syrup, lime, pineapple, $23), a flaming zombie drink that tastes like overpriced cordial.

The wine list is all Australian and Kiwi with some worthy Marlborough sauv blancs and a secret stash of premium reds. My Crimes shiraz from Victoria ($11) was perfectly drinkable and the house wine starts at a friendly $7.

Still, I challenge you to find me someone who can enjoy shiraz and twice-cooked quail while Carly Rae Jepsen is burning their eardrums off.

The music is horrendously loud on a Friday and the overly exposed dining room at the back has little intimacy or warmth.

Despite attentive table service, the drinks take forever and it's near impossible to chat over dinner.

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The volume is adjusted on other nights of the week but surely Mr Tipply would not approve of such incivility.

THE LOW-DOWN
YOU'LL LOVE IT IF … you're sick of your usual Friday night CBD pub.
YOU'LL HATE IT IF … you want a classy city bar for a quiet drink.
GO FOR … duck slider trio $25, Grape Balls of Monkey $17.

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