Mr Wong

If you're expecting a lazy susan, photo-album menu and a fortune-cookie ending, Mr Wong won't oblige. The sophisticated split-level Michael McCann fit-out with its massive hardwood pillars and raw brick walls offers a wittily retro-oriental assembly of woodblock prints, pretty bamboo fans and ancient calligraphy. Chill in the top-level bar, take a table with views to the dumpling or meat kitchens or move to the seductive downstairs den that channels a Charlie Chan mystery set in a speakeasy. Scallop and prawn siu mai are fat with minced crustacean; Chinese mushroom dumplings distil the essence of fresh funghi; and jade seafood dumplings exalt familiar fishy flavours with the freshest ingredients. There are admirable versions of the classics. salt-and-pepper squid, beef and black bean, XO pipis and a cracker mapo tofu. While deep-fried ice-cream has its own fan club, we say choose the mango pudding. Service is mature and attentive.