Naked in the Sky

As the skinny lift rumbles to the fourth floor, get the superlatives ready. you'll need them all to describe the views from the glass-walled rooftop terrace. It's a brilliant space - somewhere to flaunt to out-of-towners and a magnet for bright young things. The informal restaurant is a central corral of the noisy, convivial bar. Share Basque-inspired peasant food that's made for drinking - crunchy three-cheese and walnut croquettes to be dunked in quince aioli, mini baccala (salt cod) burgers, or gutsy, smooth duck liver and foie gras parfait with boozy Pedro Ximenez-soaked raisins. In winter, the kitchen sends out bigger, heartier braises such as beef cheeks in dry Spanish sherry, with a lush butter bean and potato puree. Even the well-dressed salad draped with anchovies has bright, distinct flavours. For dessert, sheep's milk yoghurt ice-cream adds tartness to a thick slice of toffee-crusted fried brioche. Another superlative. fabulous.