Napoli in Bocca

This old-school family pizza joint, with its red-and-white chequered tablecloths, signed Napoli soccer jerseys and large Michelangelo fresco, is once of Sydney's better examples of wood-fired napoletana pizza. Forget Aussie-fied options such as ham and pineapple and stick close to tradition: maybe prosciutto with rocket and ricotta or potato and rosemary, even if the latter could use more seasoning. The simpler the better: among the best is the caprese, with melted dabs of bocconcini, basil leaves and a vibrant tomato sauce. Rustic mains also reward, including the garlicky, nicely al dente spaghetti con vongole. BYO chianti and friends, since sharing and shouting over the Italian pop music is all part of the fun.