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Neutral Bay Diner

Neutral Bay Diner.
Neutral Bay Diner.Supplied

14/20

Modern Australian$$

Timber booths convey a sense of privacy, but a room-length mirror gives diners a broader view, which includes the large, open kitchen. Here, the focus is on what’s seasonal, organic and from the best sustainable producers. Almost everything on the menu is house-made, from the bread onwards. A fig salad starter puts sweet fruit and nuggets of gorgonzola in a sharply dressed pile of shaved fennel, witlof strands and toasted hazelnuts, while tempura zucchini flowers arrive stuffed with a creamy mix of pecorino, buffalo mozzarella and ricotta. Two herb-filled snapper fillets, wrapped in cos lettuce and steamed, are accompanied by a tabbouleh-style quinoa salad, but Berkshire pork shoulder, with crackling and cabbage slaw, was too dry to be ‘pullable’ as promised. Service is savvy, friendly and swift. Do have dessert, especially if it’s dulce de leche ice-cream sandwiched between chocolate wafers and dressed in fudge sauce.

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