New Hampton

My memories of the former Hampton Court Hotel consist of cheap Smirnoff Double Blacks and drips of water coming from the crumbling ceiling.

Fast forward a few years and add in several million dollars and some new lockouts and the crusty old pub has reopened as an ostentatious, rustic-themed lair, big enough to fit 450 people still willing to spend a night out in the Cross.

This place looks sensational. It is decked out like an extravagant wine cellar with dark timber, Caesarstone, caged wine racks and plenty of hidden nooks in the maze-like layout.

''We love the old Sydney feel of the Rocks, with its cobbled lanes and rich culture, and we wanted to bring that atmosphere into the Cross, which is traditionally known for being a bit more dark and dingy,'' says owner Kieran Coleman.

But this place suffers Kings Cross syndrome. It's too much about showiness and not enough substance.

The menus read well - creative cocktails, decent wine list, cute share plates - but a few weeks in, the service is nervy and the results are inconsistent.

The bartenders don't know their stuff yet and struggle to guide me through the cocktails and wines. One bartender even tells me the five ''after-dinner'' cocktails all taste the same.

I was suspicious of the combination of orange juice, Cointreau and Kahlua in the Jaffa Orange ($18) but it turned out to be the highlight - a creamy, well balanced treat with a cream float and crushed jaffas on top.

The others were ho-hum. A Spiced Mojito (Bacardi Oakheart, muddled lime, sugar, soda, $17) had no spice and the Chocolate Sazerac (Maker's Mark, Hennessy VS, creme de cacao, $20) was wrongly served over an absinthe-infused ice sphere that turned it into a watery glass of nothing.

Share plates of beef ribs and salt and pepper barramundi collars were greasy while the thrice-cooked chips (all $8 each) were the opposite - undercooked and bland.

Taking a seat in the little restaurant, Harvest, is a better bet if you're coming for a proper dinner.

There is a degustation menu or a nice collection of country-style rustic dishes like Barnsley lamb chop with parsnip puree and rhubarb brulee with shortbread.

It's very quiet at dinner hour on a Saturday night but starts to pick up soon after. This is probably when New Hampton comes into its own.

It's a party spot; a glamorous bar filled with glamorous people. Best to come with a group, drink champagne and get in the mood for a big night.

At least the ceiling isn't dripping.

It beats some of the tacky places in Kings Cross but with a rash of new openings (Love on Top, Catch) and some pretty decent stayers (LL Wine and Dine, Bootleg Bar and Italian, Barrio Chino) all within a kebab's throw, New Hampton hasn't made the cut yet.

THE LOW-DOWN
You'll love it if … you're after a showy new bar to start your night in the Cross.
You'll hate it if … you're expecting flawless food, drinks and service.