Newmarket Hotel

In the beginning, there were tile-walled pubs that did a basic counter-meal. Then, there were gastropubs that brought fine food to the sociable pub experience. Then, there were Melbourne Pub Group pubs: a third generation of gastropub that services its hip 'hood with a thoroughly curated, themed food and booze-focused bar experience with a sometimes nightclub vibe. The Newmarket is California 'with a wink to the south'. Half the menu is drinks (a pitcher of Pimms perhaps or a boutique draught); the other half is dedicated to dishes with Latin attitude: redolent of lime, chilli and coriander. The menu's 11 sections let diners jump between little dishes like great roll-your-own soft tacos with soft-shell crab, lamb-filled roasted fig with goat's cheese, and quinoa and zucchini salad. Or go for the grill - seven steaks - as well as lamb and pork from the rotisserie. Concrete arches, like the ribcage of a whale, denote the dining area proper, but eating in the more casual inside-outside front section is also fun.