Newmarket Hotel

Since the owners gave the kiss of life to a flagging St Kilda pub, the glam, balmy energy hasn't subsided. The crowds come as much for mojitos as for mole, so the party-restaurant ratio can jolt, but if you embrace it, it's a hoot. Garish plaid carpets, black vinyl swivel chairs and statement light fittings create a sophisticated insouciance; the Newmarket and its peeps are right on trend, and know it. So is the food. Tacos such as piquant, glossy pork carnitas or a medley of grilled snapper, heirloom tomatoes and garlicky aioli, are ferried out fast. Prawn and quinoa quesadillas with smoky chipotle sauce turn up the heat; gentler are salt-cod stuffed zucchini flowers, with zesty orange a welcome foil. Salads feature queso fresco, cactus and jalapenos, fresh friends for a hefty main from the grill, say ribs or brisket. Some like it hot - and loud, and fun. The Newmarket is all this and then some.