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No. 8 by John Lawson

A welcoming spot on the city's riviera... No. 8 by John Lawson.
A welcoming spot on the city's riviera... No. 8 by John Lawson.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$$

In this urbane setting – an airy, coolly neutral room with windows to high-rise lights across the river – John Lawson aims to bring the farm to the city. Lawson’s CV includes stints at stellar British and New York establishments, but here, at the first restaurant to carry his name, he steers away from the elaborate to explore a pared-back style relying on relationships with producers, and demanding great precision from the kitchen. Meaty ‘black and blue’ Portland tuna, seared on one side, raw on the other, is paired with powerful aged soy, black garlic and yuzu; while Milawa duck breast is perfectly pink, its mild gaminess highlighted by a little light, madeira-tinged foie gras sauce. Vegetables, perhaps tender broccolini with smoked egg, are a strength. Affable, professional waiters might recommend fluffy yoghurt-honey mousse, enlivened with a lick of smooth sweet chilli ‘jam’, for a light and fruity finish.

And … Casual grazing indoors or on the terrace, 3-5pm, Fridays and Saturdays. Also, children’s and set menus.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Welcoming spot on the city’s riviera.
Best bit The chef’s pedigree. 
Worst bit Slightly bland decor.

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