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No35

No35, restaurant, Melbourne.
No35, restaurant, Melbourne.Rhiannon Slatter

14/20

Contemporary$$$

In a city where the signature restaurant view is of a cobbled laneway, No35 is a rare eyrie. Thirty-five floors up, No35's killer views make it a spectacular venue for a night above the town. The dining plays its part, too. In a sharp, pared-back modern space, the menu is contemporary but not rarefied, built around excellent regional and often organic produce and unfussy but technically assured cooking. Roast beetroot salad with chard and goat's cheese is an excellent example. perfectly roasted sweet beets cut with just the right acidity. A duck breast is coated with a nicely numbing Sichuan pepper coat and served with roast pineapple. The rare beef fillet with oysters again displays top produce consummately prepared, while generous, rich desserts include a classic peach Melba. This is archetypal five-star hotel dining. excellent service and accomplished cuisine that's not too avant-garde for the average visitor - and a lavish night out for locals, too.

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