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Old Joe's

Candice Chung

Old Joes' interior draws heavily on the aesthetics of its namesake milk bar.
Old Joes' interior draws heavily on the aesthetics of its namesake milk bar.Fiona Morris

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It's not often a humble milk bar becomes the inspiration for a new eatery. Yet, the hype around Cronulla newcomer Old Joe's is proof nostalgia matters - at least when it comes to creating the perfect beachside bar.

Named after the shire's beloved Joe's Milk Bar, the recently opened diner pays homage to an iconic surfer's hangout owned by the late Joe Santamaria and his wife, Norma, which closed almost two decades ago.

There is a perennial holiday feel at Old Joe's. Designed by Sibella Court, the pastel-coloured interior draws heavily on the aesthetics of its namesake milk bar, with candy-striped awnings, hand-painted reproductions of vintage signs and terrazzo bar tops. The idea is to recreate the memory of salty beach days by "bringing the outside in".

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Colourful: Cajun prawn hot dog.
Colourful: Cajun prawn hot dog.Fiona Morris

The one-page menu is southern US-inspired, comprising shared plates such as sticky bourbon-braised barbecue pork ribs, lobster ''sambos'' and chilli and lime crispy squid. A word of warning for the health conscious: don't expect to find too many diet-friendly options here. These are all ''good-times food'' - in other words, dishes designed to ready one's stomach for weekend drinking.

The service at Old Joe's is cheerful, if distracted. We wait at least 15 minutes before someone takes our order. But once there, he is helpful with food and drinks suggestions, pointing out cocktail specials such as the frothy alcoholic soft-drink spiders and a Milo milkshake that's blended with vodka, chocolate liqueur, caramel and banana.

We get things rolling with some southern-style hot wings. Marinated in dark Cajun spices, the hands-on snack is moreish and has the promised heat. A tangy ranch sauce provides a slight reprieve from the spiciness, but we are happy to cool our palates with frosty pale ales from the 20-long list of local and imported craft beers.

Fizzy fun: Alcoholic soft-drink spiders.
Fizzy fun: Alcoholic soft-drink spiders.Fiona Morris
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When our mains arrive, I am surprised by the huge size of the barbecue pulled-pork hot dog. Served on a long wooden plank with a side of crispy beer-battered chips, it lacks enough sharpness or bite to balance the protein-heavy filling. A bland Vienna frankfurt suffocates under chunks of sweet and sticky slow-cooked pork, and the fried onion topping adds grease, rather than crispness. We spy the colourful Cajun prawn hot dog on the next table (served with avocado, cherry tomato, green tomato relish and chipotle mayo) which looks like a better alternative.

The fisherman's basket is a generous mix of lightly battered prawns, salt-and-pepper squid and flat-head fillets, accompanied by a small ramekin of diced salmon ceviche, which is let down by an overly sour dressing.

The night's winner is the half rack of barbecue pork ribs, which comes with a side of crunchy red cabbage slaw and sweet potato chips. The meat is tender and flavoursome from the smoky, bourbon-infused marinade. Be prepared to get messy and fight your friends for the last piece.

It's been less than three months since Old Joe's opened, but locals are clearly relishing this new playground. During our visit, groups of sun-kissed friends fill spacious booths and indoor picnic tables. And the staccato of a ping-pong game in the room occasionally punctuates an old-school hip-hop soundtrack. The atmosphere is fun, without being too rowdy. I have a feeling old Joe would approve.

Menu Southern US-inspired dishes with a modern milk-bar twist.

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Value Good.

Recommended dishes Bourbon-braised spicy barbecue pork ribs, southern-style hot wings.

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