Ombretta

There are lots of in-jokes in this homey trattoria with its fairy-lit courtyard and tiled bar - the new tenant since long-timer la Tavolaccia ended more than 30 years on this spot. Wall clocks show the time in several Italian cities (all the same hour, of course) but, despite the mock road sign, there's no such town as Ombretta. Like those wall clocks, the menu jumps from Rome to Venice with nary a backward glance. From the counter antipasto display (meats, cheeses, grilled veg) to Roman style friggitelli - soft-grilled peppers - it's all rustic blackboard stuff with a comfort-food bent. Pappardelle with mushrooms is pungent with dried porcini flavour; despite rather-too-grainy polenta, tomatoey pork ribs (spuntature) are bone-suckingly good. Italian 'cowboy food' - sausages and beans - is another happy rib-sticker, so a mixed salad that's just leaves, a little onion and caperberries does the trick. There are no tricks about the simple wine list, friendly owners or amaretti-crumbed mascarpone cream for dessert.