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Omni

Omni, restaurant, Essendon, Melbourne.
Omni, restaurant, Essendon, Melbourne.Supplied

12.5/20

Italian$$$

Flash enough to host a first date, and chilled enough to provide a local retreat for parents, Omni is a place that suits all. The compact dining room is smartly furnished with a chocolate-brown banquette, high-backed red leather chairs, mirrors and pendant lights. The food is rooted in owner-chef Natalie Stivala's family upbringing (Italian) and training (Spanish/Mediterranean), with a menu that works for sharing or individual dining. Fried chorizo (on the dry side) and olives with toasted, garlic-rubbed house bread can underwhelm; better might be a stack of plump tiger prawns served hot in an iron pan and piled with fresh parsley, chilli and garlic. Spaghetti marinara shines with fresh seafood, including mussels, pipis and crab, as does paella, with flavoursome rice but perhaps no socarrat (crust) on the bottom of the pan. To finish, churros and hot chocolate sauce are pure indulgent pleasure.

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