Ortigia

Soaring ceilings, an ornately muralled blackboard and an oversized display counter add drama to this corner jewel. Office dwellers emerge from their hidey-holes to take refuge in a lunchtime newspaper or some good old-fashioned people-watching while munching on a crunch-perfect panino replete with salmon or prosciutto plus marinated roasted vegies (eggplant, spicy red peppers, baby fennel) or tart and tangy cheeses such as feta or provolone. A well-spiced beef and vegetable borek might be your speed, unless you prefer a classic such as hot and nourishing bean soup or cannelloni with a rich napoli sauce. The walnut tart is a triumph.