Pacific Seafood BBQ House

WHERE AND WHAT

It's a long-standing debate: is the Richmond or the South Yarra version of this Chinese institution-slash-seafood specialist better? The answer probably depends on what side of the river you're on but for northerners, Pacific Seafood BBQ House is one of the highlights of Victoria Street, brusque service and all. After a recent and much-needed makeover that resulted in it taking over the shop next door, in effect doubling its size, it's still difficult to nab a table at peak hour.

WHERE TO SIT

The carpet's new, the chairs have been replaced, the walls have had a lick of paint - Pacific Seafood BBQ House is looking better than it has for years and the extension that has knocked through into the adjoining shop has doubled its holding power. As before, sitting near the door means being too close to the stream of customers and the endless opening and closing; try for a wall-side table to get out of the firing line.

WHEN TO GO

It's open daily, from 11am to late.

DRINK

It's a BYO-only policy for wine and beer, with the restaurant providing glassware that can only be described as functional. Soft drinks (no mineral water) and endless free pots of weak black tea are available.

EAT

The food can be patchy, ranging from OK to very good, but you can't go wrong with the roast duck and pork. The duck hangs in the window by the neck - the golden hue of culinary promise. The Peking duck might not be plated at the table - there's nothing in the way of ceremony here - but arrives pre-composed with what is usually a ratio of meat to fat to crisp skin and an extra dish of plum sauce. The tanks of live seafood are a drawcard - lobster, mud crab, coral trout and more, brought wriggling to the table for inspection before being dispatched quickly to the kitchen. Specials continue to be written by hand on bright pieces of paper plastering the walls: the spicy fried quail is very good, ditto the eggplant stuffed with prawn mince, or a claypot of beef brisket. Back to the seafood, there are scallops in a satiny ginger and shallot sauce with spring onions and beans; or prawns fried in a rich, salty duck-yolk batter. The more adventurous might like to go for exotica such as crocodile meat in XO sauce.

WHO'S THERE

A broad mix of Asian faces and gweilos.

WHY BOTHER?

For fast and fresh Chinese at wallet-friendly prices.

Pacific Seafood BBQ House, 240 Victoria Street, Richmond, phone 9427 8225