Papa Gede's

What do you get when you combine three flatmates, the spirit of witch-doctor apothecary, the rums of Haiti and a hidden laneway?

You get a serve of pretzels and a flaming Zombie at a voodoo-tiki-themed cocktail bar.

Kent Street is hardly quarter-acre-block territory, but its latest addition, Papa Gede's, feels like a great neighbourhood bar.

Its owners are best friends and flatmates - Josh Ng, Lara Dignam, Michael Dhinse - and we may as well be in their freakishly decorated lounge room.

All three work the floor and the bar, and consider you a regular on your second visit.

Their dark little nook, a former garage that opens on to the same secreted cobble-stoned courtyard as Since I Left You, is inspired by the drums and rums of New Orleans and Haiti, and is covered in creepy voodoo knick-knacks, melted wax candles and flaming cocktails.

It's named after the voodoo saint Pap Gede, and Ng even had the bar blessed by a voodoo priest when he was last in New Orleans.

Surprisingly, though, the signature Zombie (Appleton Estate rum, brandy, Cointreau, grapefruit, falernum, $19) is not the highlight.

As with Long Island Ice Teas, Hurricanes and other rocket-fuel concoctions, it seems not even a voodoo priest can put so many spirits in one drink and make it delicious. This one was watery and flavourless.

Instead, there are some other intriguing cocktails and plenty of choice if rum or tiki- based drinks aren't your thing.

If you like something short and strong, the Gede's Grog (two rums, grapefruit, honey, lime, $16) is great, and the Fish House Punch (rum, cognac, creme de peche, lemon and chai syrup, $16) was equally delicious.

There are tiki takes on classics such as the Charlie Chaplin and whisky sour (even their own version of the long-lost Corpse Reviver), as well as some cocktails using spirits aged for a month.

Expect plenty of spiced rum and fruity touches. Some are hit, some are miss, but they're all served in beautiful glassware with lots of love.

We'd imagine Papa Gede would have been keen to crack into this bar's absinthe collection, too. It's only small, but is good fun to experiment with.

There is goth singer Marilyn Manson's own Mansinthe (quite mellow and easy to drink compared to others) and America's first legal absinthe, St George Verte, a beautiful bright-golden-green liquid that quickly turns yellow as sugar and water are added.

Wines and beers are your usuals - a few of the owner's boutique favourites, a few bigger players - and there are some low-key cheese and meat platters or a bowl of pretzels to tide you over.

Saturdays are drawing a decent crowd despite this area being tumbleweed territory.

''We've got a lot of regulars that come in during the week in their work uniform, shirts untucked, and then in their casuals on Saturday night,'' Ng says.

With the Clarence Street triumvirate of Baxter Inn, Lobo Plantation and The Barber Shop nearby, there's even more reason to traipse to Papa Gede's dark corner of town.

You'll love it if ... you're always up for checking out kooky new cocktail bars

You'll hate it if … food and wine are a must

Go for … Gede's Grog, absinthe.