The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Papa Goose

Papa Goose Article Lead - narrow
Papa Goose Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14/20

British$$$

You'll never go hungry in this city strip, where Papa Goose rubs shoulders with buzzy big-namers (Coda, Cumulus, Chin Chin) and admirably holds its own. The space is instantly comfortable, with dark timbers, chocolate-coloured banquettes and statement lampshades that pour a moody silver light through the room. Well-crafted modern British fare is the go, served by waiters who whiz about the tables at a snappy pace. Starters might be rabbit croquettes to dunk in mustard-laced tartare sauce or prawn ceviche with dollops of sweet pea puree and wild rice crisps scattered on top, adding a lovely texture. There could be pork loin for main course, slow-cooked and served with scallop meat and compressed apple doused with rosewater. Desserts embrace the Old Blighty ethos - think banana toffee medley, which gives a nod to the classic banoffee pie and leaves you yearning a little for the mother country.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement