Pei Modern

Mark Best's Melbourne debut more than meets expectations, despite leaving the template for his gastro-temple Marque at home in Sydney. An accessible, all-day eatery, Pei Modern's impact belies its simple 'bistro' status, thanks to its crack service team and exciting, surprising food (executed by head chef Matt Germanchis). From luxe, rich and creamy almond gazpacho dotted with blue swimmer crab, red grapes and parsley, to steamed hapuku with corn kernels and sea urchin butter sauce, to the meaty grunt of grilled ox heart with bullhorn peppers and harissa, or the to-die-for comfort food of potato, bone marrow, coffee grounds and cured tuna, it's a convention-challenging experience, although more traditional pairings (from hangar steak with beetroot and Swiss chard to a spoon-licking dessert of crostoli with sauterne custard) are also to be found. Housed in the Sofitel forecourt with a cracking bar occupying one side of its cool Scandinavian fitout, Pei Modern is simply brilliant.