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Pei Modern

Pei Modern, restaurant, Melbourne.
Pei Modern, restaurant, Melbourne.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

European$$$

Taking his lead from Parisian bistronomy, Mark Best aims high with Pei Modern's food, while keeping the Paris-end-of-Collins setting casual. This southern cousin to his Sydney fine diner, Marque, is chilled enough for the open kitchen to serve boiled eggs and Vegemite soldiers for breakfast before bringing out a broad daily share-style menu that spans elegant renditions of classics such as steak tartare, and Elizabeth David's ragu bolognese. Maitre

d' and sommelier Ainslie Lubbock adds further warmth and life, providing service that's knowledgeable and low-key, and wines that intrigue and delight. Snack on brandade croquettes in the cavern-like bar before Best's erudite imagination is displayed in mains such as flat iron wagyu steak with beetroot, onion and caramelised yoghurt. Dessert offers pure Marque moments such as sauternes custard, and caramelised tomato stuffed with 12 flavours.

Taking his lead from Parisian bistronomy, Mark Best aims high with Pei Modern's food, while keeping the Paris-end-of-Collins setting casual. This southern cousin to his Sydney fine diner, Marque, is chilled enough for the open kitchen to serve boiled eggs and Vegemite soldiers for breakfast before bringing out a broad daily share-style menu that spans elegant renditions of classics such as steak tartare, and Elizabeth David's ragu bolognese. Maitre

d' and sommelier Ainslie Lubbock adds further warmth and life, providing service that's knowledgeable and low-key, and wines that intrigue and delight. Snack on brandade croquettes in the cavern-like bar before Best's erudite imagination is displayed in mains such as flat iron wagyu steak with beetroot, onion and caramelised yoghurt. Dessert offers pure Marque moments such as sauternes custard, and caramelised tomato stuffed with 12 flavours.

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