Phamish

Little known, but most excellent fact: Janni Kyritsis​, this year's recipient of the Vittoria Legend Award, has been quietly helping Kitsana (call him Joe) Aunarerom​ whip Darlinghurst stalwart Phamish into shape behind the scenes. "He tastes the menu, gives inspiration with the foods," says Aunarerom. "He's taught me a lot."

The two met in 2000 at a Good Food Month Young Chefs Dinner at Longrain​, where Aunarerom was working at the time. These days, they travel together, eat together, create menus together. If you can count Kyritsis in your corner as a chef or restaurateur (he was at the coalface with Gay Bilson​ at Bennelong and Berowra Waters Inn and later ran MG Garage), you're coming out punching.

Phamish had just celebrated its 10th anniversary when Aunarerom took over three years ago. And in that time, with Kyritsis' help, he's honed the menu, simplifying, brightening, freshening. Even on a rainy winter evening, the power of this little Vietnamese cafe is palpable. It truly is the inner-east heartland here. So blonde. So rich. So upwardly mobile. The collars are up, the linen is rumpled just so. And yes, there are at least two tables of SCEGGS​  seniors on study dates.

So the menu is an all-signs-point-to-deliciousness proposition. Chances are unless you're a total candy pants you won't eat anything all that challenging. Just straight-up tasty, like a banh xeo (Vietnamese rice pancake) filled with roast duck and prawns, and lots of fresh herbs.

In that vein, that lunchtime favourite, rice-paper rolls, come out herby and plump, the noodles inside still warm. Dip them in that sweet, thick hoisin and peanut sauce on the side. Beef la lot sees highly seasoned beef mince wrapped in betel leaves then grilled, served with a tamarind-y sauce with pickled pineapple. Sadly, while the roti is beautifully tissuey, it's also very oily.

There's a nice Thai line through some of the dishes on the wall-mounted menu. Aunarerom's history with Longrain and Sailors is reflected in the likes of stir-fried pork belly with Chinese broccoli, and caramelised pork with cinnamon and star anise.

A special of pulled beef brisket is darkly vinegary, brightened with Vietnamese herbs and served with a side of fluffy steamed buns. A big bowl of Vietnamese-style rice, stir-fried with tofu and mushrooms, garlic, egg and a whole lot of toasted shredded coconut is light and fragrant, and nicely offsets the rich beef.   

It's order and pay at the counter here. But that's cool. The lo-fi vibe, with its courtyard ensconced in all-weather plastic, tin teapots for Vietnamese tea and tables so snug you basically need to suck in to full capacity to avoid knocking  over an adjacent hot pot  as you sit down, is all part of the reason Phamish is so much fun.

THE TAKEAWAY

 Pro tip Can't stand the queues? They also do takeaway

Try this Shredded beef with vinegary sauce and crunchy vegetables and accompanying steamed buns

Bottom line Banh xeo ($16); beef la lot ($12); shredded coconut fried rice ($16.50)

Like this? Do yourself a favour and make a special trip to Tan Viet – the one and only when it comes to Vietnamese soup noodles with crisp skin chicken. Shop 2-3, 100 John Street, Cabramatta (02) 9727 6853