Pho

If soup were a film, it would be a cult classic, showing at arthouse cinemas with lumpy seats and bad heating. There would be a season of Japanese ramen anime, a black-and-white screening of French onion (warning: nudity and coarse language), and a Jewish chicken noodle and matzo ball double.

Pho, surely Vietnam's national dish, is a romantic comedy: a warm romp with no surprises and a happy ending. It is a tonic for ills of the runny nose variety (hands up who has the lurgy?) and a restorative cure for too much plonk the night before. It is filling, healthy and immensely satisfying.

The other night, I took the EastLink portal to Springvale in search of Pho Hung. It was a local tip-off by the Yuen family, who raved about the pho (pronounced ''fuh'') from this decade-old veteran and - holy Hanoi! - were they right.

I had the classic beef pho, which comes in small, medium or large (the small is large; the large is humungous). The broth was rich and clear - almost golden in colour - with gutsy beef, cinnamon and star anise flavours and, important to note, no oil slicks on top.

The rice noodles were slim ribbons with body, the raw beef a good-sized tender clump cut to the right thickness and the coriander, beanshoots and spring onions were bright, textural additions. There were plenty of the usual accompaniments: Vietnamese mint, chilli and lemon to squeeze on top.

If you like pho, you'll probably like Pho Hung's.

Other highlights on the wall-mounted menu included finger-sized spring rolls (pork or prawn) that were crispy - not greasy - served with a quarter of iceberg lettuce, mint and a salty fish dipping sauce.

The broken rice, another classic, was a hit, with a juicy, tender pork chop topped with a soft-fried egg sunnyside up and cold shredded pork skin.

I washed it all down with a tricolour drink of sweetened coconut milk with red kidney beans like sleeping submarines at the bottom and little worms of lurid green jelly.

The place itself isn't much to look at with grey laminated tables, padded grey chairs, grey floor tiles, fluorescent strip lighting and a mirror that snakes from one end of the restaurant to the other. It's utilitarian and unfussy so if the kids cry, it doesn't matter and if you rock up in your tracky dacks, all the better.

Expect to do a double-take at the bill; no, they haven't left any dishes off, it really is that cheap, so you can shout the table with cash left over to see a movie.

I think there's a borscht action-comedy about to start, or should we see the minestrone spaghetti western?

Also try …

Momotaro Rahmen (392 Bridge Road, Richmond, 9421 1661) for steaming bowls of top-notch ramen.

Laksa King (320 Racecourse Road, Flemington - until July 26; reopening at 12 Pinoak Crescent on July 30 - 9372 6383) for the seafood laksa.

Where 268-274 Springvale Road (alternative entry via Buckingham Avenue),

Springvale, 9540 3566

Prices Entrees, $9; pho, $8-$10; rice dishes, $9; drinks, $3

Cash Only

Unlicensed

Open Daily, 9am-9pm

Cuisine Vietnamese