Piaf

Piaf plays with the populism of South Bank in several pleasing ways.

Its modern design, with sleek simple furnishings, warm timber detailing and an inside that feels decidedly outside, make a great foil for people-watching and enjoying the shade of tree-lined Grey Street.

Its classic bistro fare is surprisingly good value and ingredients unfamiliar to modern Australian palates are prepared in crowd-pleasing ways: escargot are immersed in a tasty tomato sauce with melting garlic confit; the creaminess of lamb's brains is countered by a deep-fried batter and crisp speck.

The wine list is very small, very French and all by the glass. Need help deciphering a Beaujolais from a Cotes du Rhone? Knowledgeable staff will offer varietal translations. There's nothing esoteric about dessert either; try the not-too-sweet chocolate panna cotta with its dark boysenberry sauce and hazelnut praline, utterly satisfying in its flavour combinations.

Piaf is South Bank dining at its best.