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Pilgrims

Angie Schiavone

The dazzling bright space makes for an inviting summery scene.
The dazzling bright space makes for an inviting summery scene.Sahlan Hayes

Vegetarian/Vegan$$

This new outpost of the legendary south coast vegetarian cafes has taken the pilgrimage out of a Pilgrims fix. And, boy, are Sydneysiders making the most of it. This place is packed to the max on weekends especially, with a crowd you can hear from almost a block away.

Having been to the original 1980-established Pilgrims in Milton (there's also one in Huskisson), we wondered how a closer-to-home version would fare without being viewed through road-trippers' rose-coloured glasses.

The dazzlingly bright first-floor space mightn't have the best acoustics but huge windows, white walls, exposed brick and chunky timber pillars make for an inviting summery scene, rendering the noise more revelrous than rowdy.

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Pilgrims' vegetarian burgers are a hit.
Pilgrims' vegetarian burgers are a hit.Sahlan Hayes

Above a service counter stocked with jams and treats from the south coast, a huge blackboard menu lists Pilgrims' line-up of stalwart vegetarian burgers, wraps, salads and pies - made precisely to the Milton shop's method. Pilgrims abides by the ''if it ain't broke'' philosophy, so expect old-school vego fare: alfalfa sprouts are in, quinoa isn't and peanuts are A-OK.

The Bliss burger earns top billing and the greatest number of hopelessly devoted fans (as in, don't be surprised if you see people roaming around Cronulla, absent-mindedly chanting its name). It's a toasted, wholemeal bun filled with fried onion, avocado, cheese, tabbouleh, sprouts and peanut sauce and a patty made from brown rice, mixed grains, peanut and egg.

The mixed-grain patty features in most of the burgers with the exception of a marinated tofu wrap and the Millennium burger. This is the one we'll be chanting about - we're sold on its curried lentil patty, its sauciness (tahini and sweet chilli) and the inclusion of grated beetroot, lettuce and crunchy cucumber - it myth-busts any notion that healthy, vegetarian food is inevitably bland.

A breakfast menu includes eggy options, pancakes, granola, toast piled high with mushrooms, a whopping big brekkie and a brekkie burger - another great, saucy pick - all veg, of course.

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Cronulla residents can thank locals Kelly and Anthony Macdonald for bringing Pilgrims to their sandy shores. Having moved to the area a decade ago from Batemans Bay, the long-time Pilgrims fans had a feeling the south coast institution would be well received. And while there may still be a few early-days kinks in service, we can confirm this is one rosy reproduction. Anyone for a staycation?

THE LOW-DOWN

Do … buy a bottle of homemade Lake Conjola lemon cordial.

Don't … dawdle to that vacant table or you'll be beaten to it!

Dish … crowd favourite Bliss and Millennium burgers.

Vibe … a healthy coastal road trip stop, without the road trip.

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