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Pilu at Freshwater

Pilu at Freshwater Article Lead - narrow
Pilu at Freshwater Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Italian$$$

If you're rich and famous, or just want to feel as if you are, pull up a window seat at Giovanni Pilu's seaside restaurant and enjoy the best of Sardinian food, wine and hospitality. An unbidden tongue teaser of small spoons of confit melon with prosciutto is a great way to start while perusing a menu that offers some spectacular options. These include lightly battered zucchini flowers with squid and prawns, and an eggplant terrine with golden tomato puree that almost melts on the tongue. Love or hate bottarga (dried mullet roe), when paired with spaghetti, pomodorini and pea puree it transforms into something heavenly. The much-lauded porcetto arrosto comes as heroically sized hunks of slow-roasted suckling pig to be shared by two, but equally impressive is the Rangers Valley hanger steak, which arrives suitably charred and with some equally meaty king mushrooms. Desserts make ample use of fresh seasonal fruits and are almost as breathtaking as the view.

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