Pilu at Freshwater

Climb the stairs of this grand weatherboard beauty and you'll immediately feel like you're visiting a friend's beach house. The arched windows frame point-blank views of Freshwater Beach. With such natural blessings it could be all about the view; but chef Giovanni Pilu handles his Sardinian-inspired menu with expertise and modern flair. Crumbed smoked eel balls with baby mussels, tart grapefruit slivers and baby spinach is a masterful yet subtle combination. Sweet green friggitello peppers work beautifully with cured salmon, scattered with popcorn-like farro and oregano leaves. Lovingly hand-made ravioli filled with potato and a hint of anchovy come with pureed lemon; and a pink veal backstrap under a crunchy pane carasau crust pairs with sorrel and tiny, crisp brussels sprout leaves. Corbezzolo honey mousse, spiced sponge, roasted macadamias and a Sardinian beer sorbet is an exclamation mark at the end of a truly memorable meal. Superb service, too.