Pinotta

Pop quiz: what is the correct consistency for gnocchi? Whatever you're answering, you're wrong. Rather, it's a trick question. 

Gnocchi is one of those dishes that people like to plant a flag in and declare authentic or the best. But while there are plenty of ways they can be wrong – bland, bullet-like, bouncy; gluey, pasty, beetroot (has this ever worked?) Decreeing them right? That's just preference.

Lucky Peach magazine did a triple gnocchi special in the Obsession Issue as if just to make my point. "Think of each dish as a route on a map, showing the many ways deliciousness can be reached from the same origin point," writes Marco Canora.

For mouth-first evidence see Pietro Barbagallo's​ pillows at Kaprica in Carlton – soft and light yet structured, like miniature souffles with self respect. When Rosetta opened, Neil Perry's versions were dense but never gluey, and possessed exactly the heft needed to stand up to a robust sauce.

All of this is a roundabout way of telling you that the trademark gnocchi gorgonzola dish at Fitzroy North's Pinotta has left the building. But everybody stay cool. Because in its place has come a version of equal greatness. Pan-fried, potato-based and lightly ridged from the quick press on a rolling paddle, you dig them from a thicket of fresh parsley and a mixed herb blitz-up that tastes vividly of green. There's the sweet pop of fresh young peas and a shaggy jacket of grated salted ricotta. It's fresh and sweet. Soft and salty. A cheese sea it ain't. A champion dish it is. 

This is one of several changes that have been a long time coming for Heidi Modra​, who became the sole owner over a year ago when business partner and the original chef, Andy Logue​, went to Scopri​. It's only in the last four months that her vision has come into focus, and, with the hire of chef Shaun Clancy, started gaining attention. 

Mostly it's the formula that's been tweaked – services trimmed from seven to five days a week. A $45 prix fixe menu available at any time. 

And there's Clancy, always the kitchen bridesmaid to the likes of Philippa Sibley at Prix Fixe, and back in the day, Matt Wilkinson at Circa, now flexing his guns on the pass.

Clancy has a sharp and sure style that echoes his tutelage – rarely showy but packing surprise. A pool of thick whipped goat's curd comes dressed with a ragged parsley salad and capers and wafery potato crisps arranged like a bristling spine. Grilled dimes of octopus have the cleanest hint of smoke – as if finished in a cedar sauna. These are robed with a rubble of mild olives, toasted hazelnuts and lemon segments that make it all a stinging plate of fresh. 

Beyond, get the gnocchi. Fried breadcrumbs add an interesting level of crunch to spaghetti capturing fat nubbins of prawn in its web, though you might find the pangrattato over-zealously zesty. 

Maybe it'll be pork neck, simply, slowly done – the only taste is the sweet carrot-onion-celery sofrito in the braise, and high quality pork. There's loose-yet-textured buckwheat polenta with it, and you'll find it's best to back with the bitter greens. 

Everything you loved about the place still exists. The Cheryl Lynn and Sinatra hits spinning behind the bar; the three eating zones and a textbook tiramisu – a giant mountain of sponge fingers and mascarpone leaking espresso all over your plate. 

You still take the lo-fi candlelit front bar for road testing the textural Boom Town wine, or anything else Modra is rotating through. Take the street seats for summer nights where you can now order gin and juice – Campari and gin with a grapefruit float that's equal parts gangsta and fresh. Behind it all stands the huge, clean dining room, still a minimal space of stone and banquettes, all anchored by an island of bread. 

Revolutionary stuff? Goodness no. But sometimes adjusting focus makes all the difference. Adjust yours. Pinotta's worth a second look. 

THE LOWDOWN
Pro tip The $45 prix fixe gets you snacks, a starter and main any time, any day.
Go-to dish Fresh gnocchi, spring peas, lots of herbs and salted ricotta, $24.
Like this? Gerald's Bar is not Italian, but the vibe and vinyl are the same. 386 Rathdowne Street, Carlton North.

How we score
Of 20 points, 10 are awarded for food, five for service, three for ambience, two for wow factor.  
12 Reasonable 13 Solid and satisfactory 14 Good 15 Very good 16 Seriously good 17 Great 18 Excellent 19 Outstanding 20 The best of the best