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Piqueos

Piqueos, restaurant, Carlton North, Melbourne.
Piqueos, restaurant, Carlton North, Melbourne.Supplied

14/20

Argentinian$$

Piqueos makes light work of translating Latin American food for a local audience. Opened by two New Zealand expats indoctrinated in the cuisines of Argentina and Peru, this Rathdowne Village newcomer is blessed with the masculine charm - led by exposed red-brick walls and a smart copper-topped central bar - you'd expect of a menu beholden to the parrilla. The bespoke charcoal grill blesses everything it touches with smoky magic, from authentic street-food snacks such as meaty chunks of beef heart with a lick of chilli mayo to wagyu skirt steak laced with the house chimichurri. There are light touches, too, on the share-friendly menu - ceviche of blue-eye trevalla with chilli paste and star anise-spiked sweet potato puree; expertly cooked octopus with a sharp citrus sauce; fat empanadas stuffed with beef, olive and egg; or the finger-burning delights of grilled provolone cheese. Finish with alfajores, shortbread biscuits sandwiching dulce de leche - or go on to a bar footing and order another pisco sour.

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