Pizza Mario

As member No. 153 of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, Pizza Mario does 'pizza with discipline'. Big, stretchy, high-crusted pizzas (one size; no variations) are worked by hand, topped with traditional combos and cooked to smoky, blistered bliss in the wood-fired oven. The gorgonzola con radicchio pairs rich cheese with a pile of crisp, purple leaves, while the partenopea delivers a salty hit of anchovies, olives, capers and oregano. Pizza is the heroic Hercules here, but there's a handful of other good options too, such as veal and pork lasagne or fleshy, deep-fried school prawns served on brown paper. If the popular tiramisu has sold out, creamy panna cotta with an intensely bittersweet mandarin syrup is a worthy replacement. From the hunk of prosciutto hanging in the kitchen to the green-and-white-checked paper tablecloths and down-to-earth, no-nonsense staff, this red-and-grey-themed diner is the real Italiano deal.