Playa Takeria

The Mexican wave is dead, slain by shopping-mall burrito franchises, Old El Paso pub tacos, and the dude-food movement dregs. It's a brave person who opens a Mexican joint in 2015.

Thankfully, Playa Takeria owner Ricardo Acastillo is that person. His diablo-may-care approach has gifted Sydney a terrific little bar and restaurant at the old (old) Fish Face site on Darlinghurst Road.

Playa Takeria takes inspiration from the food, drinks, and endless-summer ideals of the Playa del Carmen region on Mexico's Caribbean coastline. The room is splashed with all the colour of Frida Kahlo canvas and an image of the artist herself features on the menus and shopfront (although "Freeds" is decked out in tattoos and a cut-off T-shirt instead of spider monkeys and a puffy blouse). It's a bit too General Pants Company, but bonus points for minimal Day of the Dead kitsch and zero Mexican wrestling masks.

At six o'clock on a Wednesday, the bar hums with the type of condensed energy only found in the last days of summer. There's one other bloke here and about 30 women dressed in white skirts and pastel tops. It feels like a Picnic at Hanging Rock-themed Sunday sesh, largely thanks to the fake-flower garlands handed to customers on arrival. Everyone's rocking one (except me and the other bloke) as are the predominantly Mexican staff.   

A Striptease ($19) on the cocktail list equals a margarita made with coconut cream. It's a smooth mix, but the tequila doesn't quite cut through the sweetness of the cream, making it more of a nightcap than a party-starter. For a proper fiesta-starter, you're going to want the Mezcalina ($17), a potent mezcal-based margarita with agave syrup, lime and a secret, heat-packing ingredient. The smoke flavour of the mezcal mixed the tartness of the lime makes for a knock-out drink.  

Ever had a beer poured over ice with lime juice, chilli, and a family-secret spice mix? ¡Ay, caramba! It's called a Michelada, it's $12, and it's HOT. I imagine it pairs better with a hangover on the Mexican coast than a taco on Darlinghurst Road.

The "Palenque" taco ($6) is one of punchiest vegetarian snacks I've ever had. It contains huitlacoche (say it with me, "wheat-la-koo-chee"), a fungus that grows on corn that's a delicacy in Mexico. It swings with a nutty umaniness, intensified here with a crumble of parmesan. Playa's "Don Pastor" taco ($5) is full of sweet, adobo-marinated pork and sweeter pineapple that gets along just dandy with a salty tortilla wrap.

There's heavier food options, such as a grilled chicken burrito ($14) and cheese fondue with chorizo and salsa ($19), but they seem at odds with Playa's nice-and-easy vibe. You can't go wrong with quality tacos and a bottle or two of Pacifico ($8), chased down with a shooter of Don Fulano reposado ($14). Enjoy it while the warm months are still with us.

THE LOW-DOWN
Go for… flowers in your hair.
Stay for… another round Pacifico as the sun goes down.
Drink… the Mezcalina.
And… lunchtime delivery will be available in a couple of weeks. Get your corn fungus while it's hot.