Pondok Buyung

Front the smiling ladies at the counter, choose from 20 dishes in the bain-maries - it's obvious which are freshest and most recently replenished - and don't forget 'curry gravy on my rice please'. You can have a different meal every day. There's must-have rendang, melting sambal eggplant, water spinach in coconut milk, bean sprouts, green beans, or delicious jackfruit. Or check out tempe (nubbins of soybean cake), tofu, fried fish, chicken curry, tripe, brains and heart. With no-frills laminex tables, a free mug of black tea or cold water and news from Jakarta chattering on TV, you'll leave here well lunched and refuelled.