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Popolo

Popolo Article Lead - narrow
Popolo Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13/20

The real beauty of this latest offering from the team that brought us Libertine is getting one of the glitziest views in Brisbane with food, service - and a price tag - that doesn't intimidate. While inside is industrial cool with vintage posters, a red neon sign and raw concrete walls, you'll be wishing you had a table for two out front where Euro-style wicker chairs have pole riverside position. From the kitchen come pork and veal meatballs like nonna would make in a gutsy tomato sauce, while very good house-made gnocchi is pan-fried then served with a jumble of sticky sausage, caramelised pumpkin and pecorino. There's a pleasingly thin, foldable crust on the prawn and anchovy pizza, but it's the so-tender-you-could-use-a-spoon suckling pig that's the highlight, with sweetly spiced peach compote and anchovy sauce to jazz it all up. Service can be slow but a rustic fig and frangipane tart with vanilla mascarpone offers a fine excuse to stay soaking up that view.

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