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Popolo

Popolo
PopoloSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$

Lucky Rushcutters Bay locals. Since this smart Italian joint opened, they've been able to pop in, sip an aperitivo and graze on antipasti at the bar, then pick up a silver Lexus from one of the luxury car dealers nearby on the way home. Or like us, they can sit at a table and take a more serious approach to the wood-fired goodness that's Popolo's main game. Monster prawns emerge from the oven before being simply finished with good olive oil, mint and capers. Gnudi - nutmeggy ricotta and spinach gnocchi - are light, almost floating in a pool of gutsy tomato sauce and adorned with salted ricotta shavings. Golden-skinned spatchcock yields easily to the knife, the herb-encrusted pieces resting alongside vincotto-braised radicchio. Almond and hazelnut praline plus smashed meringue add three kinds of crunch to nougat semifreddo and fragrant raspberry compote.

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