Porteño

Ah, we’re a fickle lot, flocking in droves to the newest and coolest, only to discard it for the next newest and coolest to arrive. So how to explain the nightly queue that forms outside this four-year-old Argentinian grillhouse? Okay, it may be that the owners – the heavily tattooed Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz – are two of the coolest chefs in town. It might be because from the minute you walk in the door, it feels like fun. But it’s mostly because the food is so very, very good. No, don’t forsake the famed brussels sprouts. Yes, do succumb to the wood-fired pig. Enjoy, too, the delicate touch of calamari with three styles of cucumber or the perfect crunch of zucchini flowers stuffed with feta and provolone. Match them with a fine pinot grigio from Mendoza and be thankful that there are some places worth queuing for.

And … Gardel’s Bar upstairs is a mighty fine place to wait for a table.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Argentinian funhouse.
Best bit The passion on the plate and on the floor.
Worst bit When the wood-fired lamb and pork have sold out.