Prohibition Food and Wine

• Savoury doughnuts on the rise in Melbourne

I'm not sure what prohibition sounds like, but I don't think it's the sounds filling Prohibition: ice bopping in a cocktail shaker, an explosive roar of laughter from a high-topped table, the pop of a Prosecco cork, and the happy whoosh of tap beer flowing into a chilled glass.

Prohibition is a handsome and instantly popular new Camberwell restaurant in a corner bank building that's now more brouhaha than balance sheet.

The name references the eastern suburb's infamous dry area, which was covered by a set of recently relaxed regulations that made it annoyingly hard to slake an honest thirst, but extremely easy to locate the moral high ground. As the rules have eased, Prohibition's customers seem to be making a mission of celebrating the lapsarian flow of liquor.

Owner Wayne Stoll has watering-hole experience at Prahran's Mt Erica​ Hotel. Chef Matt Barlow has cooked at Bacash and Cecconi's.

The menu is modern bistro – no particular cuisine, just an easy facility with European, Asian and Middle Eastern flavours sprinkled over the usual shareables, meat and vegetable dinners and char-grilled steaks.

Writing good menu is one thing, but these dishes also pay off in the eating. They're well rendered, full of flavour and pretty.

Confit garlic doughnuts might be this summer's key drinking snack, with their crisp shells, light centre and sweet whack of garlic goodness.

Braised octopus is succulent with a rich romesco base and a sherry hit in the vinaigrette. The seasoning is bang on.

A main course of pan-cooked ocean trout is crisp-skinned and succulent, accompanied by a just-tender tumble of peas and beans dressed with lemon oil.

Duck cigar is the only misfire: the pastry flops and the Thai-style salad of snake beans is clunky and bland.

Desserts come out swinging: caramel-sodden banana brioche pudding is as sweet and heady as the kiss that sings of true love. Lemon posset (milk pudding) is demure, but plies persistent citrus charms.

The prohibition era may be over, but there's still opportunity to feel naughty here by booking the private dining room in the old bank safe. It has a cave-like, speakeasy feel, and is the perfect venue for end-of-year celebrations.

Rating: Three and a half stars (out of five)