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Pulp Kitchen European Brasserie

Pulp Kitchen European Brasserie
Pulp Kitchen European BrasserieSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

So this is what the French call bistronomy the simple, unclad tables, sturdy wooden chairs, blackboard menus and boho art might suggest old-school French bistro, but this next-gen kitchen is a whiz at upgrading and updating the classics, sending out sophisticated dishes at ridiculously good-value prices. Chef Keaton McDonnell has a light touch and an intuitive eye for what's both compatible and fashionable. Seared duck magret comes with house-made duck sausage, fried duck egg and sorrel salsa verde; roasted pork loin is teamed with braised shoulder, trotter terrine and cauliflower puree; and lemon and poppyseed cake is tagged with yoghurt jelly, fresh honeycomb and goat's milk sorbet. A clever beetroot tarte tatin takes on furls of white and golden beetroot and pickled beetroot puree, while golden john dory fillets come with white beans, a tangle of pickled carrot shavings and carrot puree. There is something a bit scruffy about the place, but that's part of its under-the-radar charm.

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