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Quattro Formaggi Deli and Wine Bar

Lenny Ann Low
Lenny Ann Low

The small-wine-bar revolution continues to blossom on the lower north shore. Neutral Bay and Cremorne are already home to White Hart, Pony Lounge & Dining, Local Bar, Honey Rider, Vinobravo and the Mayor Bar & Dining, among others. Now a Mosman food store has added a drinking nook to create Quattro Formaggi Deli & Wine Bar.

UPON ARRIVAL CHEESES, ANTIPASTO AND CURED MEATS woo the senses from a long cabinet at Carlos and Pino Iacobbe's Italian deli. Follow the cabinet past shelves brimming with Italian vinegars, coffee, estate olive oils, pasta, sauces and breads to Carlos's son Pino's brainwave - a cosy wine bar beside such inviting produce.

A MIX OF TALL, MEDIUM AND LOW tables with high stools, pouffes, dining chairs and a cushioned banquette seats about 30 people. Tiled floors, windows with dark-wood shutters, pistachio-hued walls and lighting from hanging metal lamps and wall sconces create a warm space. It's stylish but simple decor. The room's dominant decoration is a panoply of cheeses, olives and meats - from Australia, Italy, Spain and France - and a wall of Australian, Italian, New Zealand, Spanish and French wines beyond.

THE SEVEN-PAGE MENU MIRRORS the mouth-watering landscape of produce. Choose from more than 30 cured meats - from Lismore producer Vecchiet's mild sopressa della nonna and very hot calypso to Barossa smoked wagyu beef and Spanish jamon iberico. Match your sliced meats with a selection of cheeses (more than 40 varieties include blue, cheddar, pecorino, soft and goat) as well as pate, anchovies, olives, smoked salmon, bread and crackers. It's overwhelming at first but cheery staff give advice and translate the menu when they arrive at our table.

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WE COULD CHOOSE A PLATTER - Italian, Spanish or Australian - but bravely tackle our own selection. We start with plump fetta-stuffed green olives, tangy Sicilian white marinated anchovies and soft folds of melty jamon serrano. Fresh globes of bocconcini wrapped in Italian parma prosciutto follow - salty, creamy parcels savoured slowly. Riding high on such concentrated flavours, glasses of Margaret River Fermoy Estate shiraz ($10), McLaren Vale Serafino ''Bellissimo'' sangiovese ($8.50) and a rich red Viviani Valpolicella Classico from Veneto, north-eastern Italy ($14.50) level things out splendidly. There are about 80 wines - 35 available by the glass - as well as a small range of Italian and Australian beers, one or two cocktails and a fine variety of spirits, muscats and ports.

PORTIONS OF VELVETY RICOTTA and spinach cannelloni ($13.50) and pasta of the day, gnocchi with pumpkin, chicken, spinach and white-wine sauce ($18.50) are first-rate. Like every other morsel ingested, they're available to take away. Quattro Formaggi differs from its nearby small-bar cousins. It's not a stand-alone saloon working a hip vibe, more a relaxed tipple and snack spot. But any small-bar devotee will fall for its warm glow, swift service and marvellous produce. And maybe take some of it home, too.

YOU’LL LOVE IT IF you want a vast selection  of cheese, cured meat and other Italian deli staples.

YOU’LL HATE IT IF you want a  hip, loud place to be seen.

GO FOR informed staff, wide bar-snack choices and a good wine list.

IT’LL COST YOU  wine by the glass $7.50-$29, beer $6-$8, cocktails $8.50-$10, breakfast $6-$15, lunch $8-$19, pastas $13.50-$16.50, platters (for two people) $29-$38, dessert $4-$8.

Quattro Formaggi Deli & Wine Bar

Address Shop 3, 803 Military Road, Mosman, 9960 3555

Open Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm; Sun, 8am-9pm

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Lenny Ann LowLenny Ann Low is a writer and podcaster.

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