Rajarani

The sparkling clean windows are a good sign, as is the steady stream of locals coming to pick up their takeaway. In the corner, two winemakers argue the suitability of a local traminer with a mellow badami lamb, its fork-friendly leg chunks served in a smooth almond puree with distinctive, well-integrated spicing. While the chickpea batter was a little thick on otherwise well-made vegetable bhajis, it's properly understated on kolinada macchi - small fillets of white fish lifted with a hint of turmeric. Mudgee may be a long way from the sea, but the subtly spiced mixed seafood in coconut cream is a crowd-pleaser, nattily served in a coconut shell. Meanwhile, mesmerising loops of Bollywood dancers undulating on the TV screen form a likely backdrop to dessert. Three small dark red gulab jamun - light balls of semolina and curd - come bathed in a puddle of sweet rosewater, the colour neatly complementing the salmon pink decor.