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Red Chilli Sichuan

Chinese$$$

The Red Chilli chain links several suburbs (Burwood, Chatswood, Glebe and two times Chinatown). The formula is straightforward: Sichuan food, smart surrounds, shiny photo menus and polite staff. More grandiose than the others, Harbour Plaza boasts dark-wood tables and seafood tanks, with groups of young Chinese tucking in to cold cuts and hotpots. Start with beef strips, tongue and tripe fronds jazzed up with chilli oil or a plate of dimpled dumplings with sweet-and-spicy dipping sauce. Proceed to a tongue-tingling braise of lamb with cumin and Sichuan pepper, with a refreshing plate of bok choy or stir-fried green beans with pork mince. Chilli heads will love it; delicate palates need not apply.

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