15/20
Contemporary$$$
Generosity and thoughtfulness are at the heart of Rachel McNabb and Grant Farrant’s hidden dining room. Let the candlelight lead you through a stark shopping mall car park towards a warm welcome by exemplary waitstaff; pulling out seats, laying napkins on laps and explaining the menu in impressive detail. The affordable degustation is a fine choice, although the a la carte menu is also bountiful - with complimentary ricotta and pecorino buttered bread, a smooth artichoke veloute, pre-dessert and post-dinner chocolates. An entree of sea scallops with prosciutto-wrapped pork jowl is paired with toasted grape marshmallow - an ingenious combination. Chicken ravioli looks a picture with smears, blobs and foam but somewhat under-delivered on flavour. Wagyu sirloin is another wow dish, as is a rosewater meringue that arrives looking like a swan on a lake of soft toffee.
And … It’s off the highway, through the shopping alley to the car park.
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Warm and friendly with waistcoat waiters.
Best bit Big-hearted professionalism.
Worst bit Tricky location.
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
Sign up