Rhubarb Rhubarb

Within Rhubarb Rhubarb's two bijoux rooms is a jewel - a kitchen that delivers much more than its cautiously underselling menu descriptions might suggest. Locals, of course, have long been in the know, and enter flushed with expectation to be warmly greeted by floor staff. Newcomers are more circumspect, sidling in with brown paper bags (a BYO!), surprised by the smart decor and food that walks a confident line between classic technique and modern sensibilities. An entree of quail is a case in point - artfully arranged and accompanied by light pillows of gnocchi and a rich tarragon-brandy jus, just missing a heel of bread to mop up the last delicious smear. Seared scallops surround a crab raviolo, with little piles of tomato concassse, vinaigrette and sprigs of baby chervil. A main of pork belly is generous to a fault, with the crispest ever crackling, halved brussels sprouts and a pool of horseradish and celeriac sauce. Desserts answer to a classic French roll call: brulee, souffle and fondant, but all whimsically reimagined.