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Rick Stein at Bannisters

Rick Stein at Bannisters Article Lead - narrow
Rick Stein at Bannisters Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14/20

High above the glorious Pacific Ocean, the fishily famous Rick Stein has transformed this well-heeled resort restaurant into a 'cool' destination. It's pricey, but good seafood costs, and olives and house-made sourdough with briney nori butter are gratis. An expertly dressed salad of fresh figs, prosciutto, rocket and buffalo mozzarella is one of two non-seafood choices but easily holds its own against a more exotic dish of steamed abalone. Served in a shell, tender slices of abalone mix it with mushrooms, noodles, coriander and spring onions in a good soy, mirin and sesame dressing. Seafood 'pie' comprises two kinds of fish, plus prawns and mussels, in a rich veloute, topped with crunchy crumbs; while warm shellfish in parsley, chilli and garlic oil demands hands-on peeling of prawns and cracking of crab claws, work that is richly rewarded. More rewards come with raisin ice-cream served affogato style, with a shot of Pedro Ximenez and another of espresso.

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