River Kwai

Rich red walls decorated with sweeping flashes of gold and carved wooden turtles warm this large but cosy dining room. The menu turns up the temperature, where Thai and Burmese dishes revel in more heat than sweet. Entrees are familiar Thai offerings, but a home-made spring roll with thin, hot, house-made sweet chilli is good, as is a tender, marinated prawn cloaked in a crisp pastry shell. Green pawpaw salad adorned with splayed, salted crab is an invigorating collision of warm, crisp crab and cold, zingy salad. Burmese flavours get a real run in the curry department (they favour a blend of onion, garlic and ginger, while Thai curries lean on coconut cream) - the chunky potato and prawn curry is a homely, fragrant, uncomplicated stew. A simple pad Thai lacks a little signature sweetness, but the light and moreish kaffir-lime panna cotta served with coconut icecream makes up for it.