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Rock Lily

Rachel Olding

American (US)

Openings at Star City always attract a bit of attention from Sydneysiders, if only to see how the casino honchos have managed to spend copious amounts of money this time. As the multimillion-dollar facelift continues, a new addition has arrived - a tequila-loving, 200-capacity live-music venue nestled rather unglamorously between the food court and the blackjack tables. Live music and cocktails for the discerning is risky territory for the city's epicentre of tat and gambling but why shouldn't a casino take a gamble of its own from time to time?

A SPARKLING, ROTATING DRUM KIT downstairs hints at the kinds of dosh thrown into this venture. Putting on local gigs, however, is a tough job and certainly not a money-spinner. If you believe the naysayers, live music is going down the gurgler in Sydney as well, so I'm a tad suspect as to the motive for slapping such a glossed-up venue in a casino. An altruistic move to support Sydney's live-music scene? An attempt to rebrand the casino for the young, cool crowd? Rebranding might be closer to the truth considering VIP after parties and big guns such as Snoop Dogg are being lured to the venue. ''We liked the idea of a live-music bar, as good live music brings people together and can turn a good night into a truly memorable night,'' says the managing director of Star City, Sid Vaikunta.

WHATEVER THE REASON, any chance to give local bands a stage gets my vote and I particularly enjoy a bluesy rock band playing on the Saturday night we visit. The crowd is an odd mix of young hipsters and people who have accidentally stumbled in on their way to the pokies. Not surprisingly, despite a slick set-up with leather armchairs, long mirrors, dark wooden bar tables and a wall of tequila bottles glistening in the dim light, the place totally lacks warmth and vibe. It's very open and feels vacant despite having a decent-sized crowd.

THE BAR IS A TEQUILA DESTINATION, so it's only natural that margaritas take front row on the drinks menu. You can choose from two versions, Cadillac or Tommy's, shaken, stirred or frozen with any tequila you desire. I go for the entry-level shaken Cadillac margarita with el Jimador reposado tequila, which is delicious. It's superbly shaken and a perfect mix of salty and sweet. Surprisingly, the only other tequila-based cocktail on the list of signatures is the 63 Pontiac (el Jimador, fresh raspberry puree, apple juice and lemon, $10) which is a bit so-so. There are, however, some ''flights with back-up'' for ballsy drinkers - things such as a shot of tequila with smoky chipotle Tabasco or a slice of jalapeno, tequila plata and a sangrita chaser - and staff who know what they're talking about if you want to explore the big repository of ''lowland'' and ''highland'' tequilas. They'll even tell you the history of various brands. Aficionados will be happy to know this bar stocks authentic mezcal, the smoky agave spirit.

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FOR THE NON-TEQUILA DRINKING PUNTER, the Ice Man (home-made ginger beer slushie, fresh lime, vodka or dark rum, $12) is excellent and full of flavour. The Barbados Bitch Slap (Mount Gay Extra Old Rum and dark creme de cacao with dark chocolate and orange bitters, $16) is great, too - a classy, serious cocktail. Unfortunately, there is nothing fiery to eat with such punchy cocktails unless you want to brave the food court. The odds are against Rock Lily but this gamble might just pay off.

Rock Lily

Address Star City, 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont, 9777 9000

Open Wed-Sun, 5pm-late

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