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Rockpool (bar menu)

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

Warm surrounds: The bar at Rockpool restaurant.
Warm surrounds: The bar at Rockpool restaurant.Wolter Peeters

Modern Australian$$

On a cold winter's night, have you ever thought to yourself, ''Gee, I could really go a slice of Rockpool's famous date tart right now''? I have, at least twice in the past month, but then I remember it's 8pm on Friday and I have about as much chance of securing a table at Rockpool as I do a spot on the bench for the Swans. If I do jag a seat, I'll still need to find time for a huge tasting menu and sell a second kidney to afford it.

That scenario no longer has to exist. One can now walk into Rockpool any night it's open, pull up a stool, and grab a bite-sized slice of date tart for $3. The three-hatted restaurant has launched a bar menu, and it's fantastic.

''We felt the bar should have a life of its own,'' says Rockpool executive chef Neil Perry.

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Blue swimmer crab congee.
Blue swimmer crab congee.Wolter Peeters

''Somewhere to drop in for a drink and a bite to eat and watch the world go round. The bar's right next to the kitchen, so it's also an experience watching the chefs at work.''

And what sensational work they're doing. Head chef Phil Wood has designed a bar menu that combines booze-friendly finger food, items from the restaurant's tasting menu and a snack-sized version of its classic rich and noble congee ($15). The current congee features blue swimmer crab, star anise peanuts, croutons of Chinese fried bread and snow-white almond tofu.

Chirashizushi of kingfish, tuna and squid ($9) is pink and delicate. It's the opposite in every way from a bowl of fried chicken with konbu butter and pixie curls of Australian truffle ($25). The konbu butter is more addictive than online gaming and twice as satisfying. I want to put it on everything.

Also awesome are the caviar finger sandwich with chives and capers ($16); pork belly with coriander, chilli and rice roll ($9); and wagyu beef cheek ($28) cooked yakitori-style at the bar using a miniature of the fire pit from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom.

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If you haven't dined at Rockpool since it relocated to the Burns Philp Building in Bridge Street, do so.

''Welcome to 21st-century fine-dining,'' said the barman at one point. Cheers. It's a pleasure to arrive.

LOW-DOWN
Do ... Get in early. The bar has a no-bookings policy.
Don't ... Order the caviar with blinis if you intend to stay under budget.
Dish ... Rich and noble blue swimmer crab congee, $15.
Vibe ... Fine dining with more truffle and less kerfuffle.

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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